Mercearia do Campo de Ourique

We find excuses to explore the many bairros of Lisbon—the city, much like Paris, is more a collection of villages than one monochromatic town.

Perched on a hill overlooking the lower quarters on the river, Campo de Ourique survived the earthquake of 1755 like a bear—it’s shaped like one, and for a while I thought the bear was somehow the origin of the name (ours being “bear” in French). No such fancy, just a peaceful neighborhood that, during the 1900s, sheltered revolutionary thinkers alongside everyday working folks in its cocooning streets.

Today, it remains a quiet haven, and we went in search of a good place to tap into a craft beer in the city. Luck steered us into the Mercearia do Campo de Ourique, a petiscos and pratos market with beer-lined shelves, and a good selection of interesting wines and cheeses too. The Mercearia has a “morning” market too, where you can wifi with your friends far away over coffee—or pick a homemade dessert from the glass-enclosed lazy Susan in the corner. I loved my polvo lagareiro, the octopus practically confit-ed in olive oil, while my mate enjoyed his burger. 

We washed the good food down with a Hipster Monkey from Bolina, and an appropriate D’Ourique Golden Strong Ale, made right there in the neighborhood. Life is good in the bairro.