Ouro, Incenso e Birra, Marvila

Last year, the cold of early January struck us hard, but we warmed our hearts (if not our hands) by heading down to Marvila and wrapping those hands around a succession of beers. The Festa dos Reis put on by the Lisbon Beer District, featured Cerveja Musa, Dois Corvos, and Ceveja Lince—and I guess they had so much fun, they did it again this year. Who doesn’t like a block party? It’s an excuse to wander around the streets drinking a craft beer.

In 2019, the festa got a re-dub: Ouro, Incenso e Birra, a take on the Three Kings reference, though it was held the week after the holiday (also known as Epiphany), which is huge in Portugal. Our strategy got an upgrade too: We came earlier in the afternoon, to ensure we had plenty of time to sample all the beer. And we started at Dois Corvos, where I had the longest list of new beers to tap. It was Tryanuary, after all…

I won’t go into all of them here—I’ve been tweeting and IGing them daily through the month of January, and they’ll post on my Tryanuary Portugal 2019 page once the month is complete. But we scrolled through four tastings between us, and a couple of spicy hot dogs, for the cost of €2 for the glass (a plastic one this year—ugh) and €2 to €3 per pour.

We stopped at Capitão Leitão—one of the hippest little joints around—to listen to the DJ spinning a vinyl wave. There we tried bottles of Mecanica’s new American Pale Ale (APA) and IPA and got glass glasses etched with the Setúbal-based brewery’s brand.

On down the street at Musa we braved the crowds listening to a series of bands for two more beers—one being the collaboration brew from Musa, Dois Corvos, and Lince, simply called “Birra.” Then it was off to Cantinho da Mafalda for salgados and a warm up. We weren’t done, and it was only 7:30 pm, so we went back to Dois Corvos for two more tastes, making new friends as we shared their large booths with random strangers.

Who’s cold now?